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 «The awful
child» of fashion was born to a good French family, in the suburb of Paris, on
April 24, 1952. He was an awkward kid: he never played pranks; he made friends
with girls and never fought with his contemporaries. Later on he would say, «I
am more attracted to men from physical point of view; however I find women easy
to talk to. I understand them more. But I like wearing both men and women».
Jean Paul was
brought up by his grandmother, a professional fortune-teller. «She greatly
loved me and was always telling, spreading the cards, «I see luck comes for you
and all your dreams will come true». She predicted only good things to me. And
I could always rely on her support», recollected the designer. And certainly, a
great couturier loved drawing a lot in his childhood.
Jean-Paul
Gaultier created his first work when he was 17 and he sent his drawings to
several Fashion Houses. His parents supported their «odd» son and his mother
followed him to all interviews.
On April 24,
1970 when he was 18-year-old, Gaultier was employed as one of the numerous
assistants at Pierre Cardin Fashion House. «I was so worried when I stepped
into this Fashion House. Cardin offered 500 francs per month. Of course, I agreed!».
When
working for Cardin Gaultier was involved in design of small kitchen utensils.
Yet, he is not a designer, the fashion world does not appeal to his name, but Gaultier
is still learning. He sucks the atmosphere, remembers the feelings and impressions
and gradually relaxes. During the last six years prior to his first collection Jean-Paul
Gaultier finally determines his sexual orientation and turned into one of the
perspective apprentices from provincial pain in the neck. And during those six
years he did a lot; he left Cardin, worked for several less popular designers, returned
to Cardin again and left for the Philippines to make a line of clothing for the
sale in America.
But in the
very soonest time his dearest grandmother died, his true friend and helper. In
tears, he returned to Paris in July, 1975.
Luxury and
snobbish Paris did not anticipate a great Maestro in Gaultier. Along with his
partner a young designer creates a collection of electronic adornments, he
dreams, tries, but fails, alas. His first collection of ready-made clothes of
1976 passed unnoticed.
In 1978 «Kashiyama»,
a Japanese Fashion Company, offered to fill a vacation at their House. And Gaultier
opens his own Fashion House for this money. And only the fifth collection gets
successful. And this is not just a success: Gaultier gets up the following day a God of Fashion.
And why the
world-weary public got attracted by this collection? First of all, combination
of women and men elements, rapture of the underwear to the «evening» clothes, lack
of taste as such which was absolutely replaced by the eclecticism. As Pierre Cardin noted, «during years of work Gaultier
changed his concepts of good and bad taste».
His most
crucial works of 80s include a collection devoted to James Bond, Hi-Tech attires
made from waste and cans, homespun «Paper summer», unisex «Clothes for the Two»,
and a collection «Dadaism» where he first presented girdles.
The
designer included skirts in his collection for men «Et Dieu créa l'homme»
Spring-Summer 1985 released in 1984. «Manhood is not necessarily a wear
garment. Manhood of every representative of stronger sex is in his mind», he shocked
the public with this statement.
The 90s
became a milestone in life of the designer. First of all, his regular partner
Fransis Menouge died of AIDS. This big personal tragedy hardly broke Gaultier but
his work helped to survive.
Second,
that was time of Madonna. Gaultier worked with enthusiasm at her image and the
result was just phenomenal. Who has not heard or seen that famous bustier with
peaked caps? And in 1991 the world was acquainted to his collection of men and
women wear «Adam and Eve - modern adventurers». Yes, yes, the collection was
for both men and women. It was such an ode for androgynism.
After that Gaultier
became a famous host to the iconic English program «Euro trash», full of
obscenity and humor, and he became even more popular than other celebrities.
In 1996 Gaultier
achieves another breakthrough in the fashion industry; he exhibits the first
Haute Couture Show.
Apart from
the own line of clothes, the Maestro is involved in perfume creation and, of
course, collaboration with movie industry. Just remember the icon movie «The
Fifth Element» by Besson, and this is Gaultier who created fantastic attires for
movie characters. He works with Pedro Almodovar and makes costumes for the
world-known theater performances. He is always dramatically busy.
He is one
of the popular persons in the world, he is still young, and is capable for a
lot.
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